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I’m making some looks that are already out there, but I’m adding different aspects and making them my own.” She’s worked on the sketches for her collection for about a year, she said. Mathias estimates she created more than 40 sketches, but many were thrown into the trash pile. Now, she’s narrowed it down to nine total looks – six for women and three for men, although she said that some of the looks can be worn by either gender. “I just start sketching random things that pop into my mind, whether I gain inspiration from seeing other designers’ collections or from walking around campus,” she said. “They might change around as I really get into the design process and begin making the garment.” She points to a dress she designed for her basketball banquet as an example. Originally, she sketched the dress with bottle caps running up the sides, but along the way, she decided to place the caps around the neckline and chest. “As I’m putting things together, my eye just sees something different than what I sketched,” she said. “And the dress turned out completely different than how I originally imagined it, but I love how it turned out. It’s all about the process.” Why bottle caps?

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Erdem x H&M: the ballgown is taking over the high street

Claire Foy in Christian Siriano on the cover of Vogue. When Erdem x HM drops on 2 November, the smart money will be snapping up a £149 party dress with intricate snowdrop embroidery on formal stiff jacquard, embellished with a traditional grosgrain bow and falling from a precisely gathered waist into a voluminous, ankle-length tiered skirt. The November issue of British Vogue features Claire Foy in a floor-sweeping, dusty-pink ballgown by Christian Siriano. As the star of Netflix drama The Crown, Foy is no stranger to a ballgown. The Crown, Downton Abbey, the Queen’s 90th birthday last year, Gucci’s sponsorship of an exhibition of English aristocratic style at Chatsworth House and the resurgence of Princess Diana as a style icon that has accompanied the 20th anniversary of her death are combining to revive the ballgown, a style of dress that until recently seemed as anachronistic to modern entertaining as the bouillon spoon. The snowdrop-embroidered ballgown is one of the standout showpieces of Erdem x HM, this year’s most eagerly awaited designer/high street collaboration, which goes on sale next month. Erdem Moralioglu was born in Canada to a Turkish father and British mother, moved from Montreal to Birmingham as a child and founded the Erdem label in 2005. In the past four years, Moralioglu has been awarded three top gongs at the British Fashion awards – red carpet designer of the year, womenswear designer and establishment designer – and has expanded his business from a space in Hackney, north-east London, to a Mayfair boutique and headquarters. This is the first time in eight years that H&M has partnered with a British fashion designer for its collaboration. In 2009, Matthew Williamson used the platform to fly the flag for the boho-chic style of loose muslin, kaftan shapes and hummingbird motifs then in vogue. The hype that surrounds the H&M collaboration increases every year – in 2015, jackets from the Balmain x HM collection were resold on eBay at 10 times their retail value, making them as expensive as real Balmain.

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